The best in jewelry, from Boucheron necklace to pearl accessories – Robb Report

The big idea: exploiting the past

The practice of reworking old themes is a familiar concept at the world’s top jewelry houses, but this year designers have revised the legacies and dynasties of kingdoms past for the aesthetics of today’s increasingly relaxed but no less sumptuous. Jewelers took large proportions and antique settings and modernized them, incorporating colored gemstones for a new perspective and, in one case, using materials borrowed from the ancient world, never before seen in fine jewelry.

Boucheron and Santi by Krishna Choudhary delivered spectacular pieces inspired by the ornate jewelry of Maharajahs. Claire Choisne, Boucheron’s creative director, has reinvented archival creations from the home’s the largest special order in its 164-year history, which was placed by the Maharajah of Patiala in 1928. Choisne created the appearance of lightness by designing the New Maharajahs collection using only white diamonds, crystal of rock and pearls, except for a single masterpiece necklace executed with a touch of emeralds. The extravagant platinum set is set with nine Colombian emeralds totaling nearly 39 carats surrounded by white diamonds and rock crystal. Meanwhile, Choudhary, a 10th generation jeweler whose family has been crafting centerpieces for Indian royalty for centuries, has concocted creations using designs found in his ancestral hoard of rare antique jewelery at Royal Gems & Arts, l family business in Jaipur, India. Two three-carat pear-shaped diamonds set off a pair of titanium earrings shaped like poppy flowers, for example, in a design inspired by the base of a 17th-century gold and enamel hookah .

While an air of levity at Boucheron and Santi offered a fresh take on historically lavish jewelry, Chanel opted for deep hues and serious weight in a singular 55.55-carat sapphire to accent its Allure Celeste necklace, derived from a diamond star brooch created for the house. first foray into fine jewelry, the 1932 Bijoux de Diamants collection. Heritage pieces were executed mostly in white diamonds, but 90 years later sapphire is attracting the attention of the anniversary range. Symbolizing the moon, it nestles in the neck of the necklace, surrounded by a celestial swirl of diamonds. It’s joined by an 8.05 carat pear-shaped diamond in a sunburst pattern with a “comet” of smaller diamonds bursting into the neckline below. The concept is a deeply sexy and decadent proposal for a piece based on a relatively simple Art Deco brooch.

Other designers rely on bygone eras not just as creative sources, but for literal artifacts that can be repurposed. A trip to Egypt provided unprecedented material for Silvia Furmanovich’s earrings. Sourced from a local merchant, the authentic century-old papyrus paper, popularized by the tourist tradition of the early 20th century, is crimped onto wood, covered with a protective layer, then framed in 18-karat gold and surmounted of lapis lazuli and diamonds.

Going back in time to find original expressions for the present is an eternal design exercise, but this year the spirit of jewelry history seemed to breathe new life into its modern disciples.

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